Introduction:
In May 2023, my wife and I finally checked something off our bucket list: a trip to the Island of Hawaii. We spent 5 nights at the Hilton Grand Naniloa in Hilo without paying any cash out of pocket for the room! (We used points for the entire stay.)
In the last post, I shared how much it cost us to fly to Hawaii, how we booked 5 nights in Hilo on points, and what the drive across the island from Kona looked like.
In this post, I’ll cover our first full day on the Hilo side: where we ate, how we spent the day chasing waterfalls, and a scenic drive that felt like stepping into a movie. If you’re planning to base yourself in Hilo, this could be a great itinerary to follow.
First Full Day in Hilo:
Because of the 3-hour time difference from Vancouver, we actually woke up feeling pretty refreshed around 9:00 am.
Stop 1: Redeeming the poke disappointment
We woke up hungry, and one of my goals was to redeem the poke experience from the night before. So we drove 2 minutes from the hotel to Suisan Fish Market (one of the top rated poke spots in town)
They open at 9:00 am and stay open until they sell out, and you can literally see the fishermen cleaning their boats right behind the building. It doesn’t get fresher than that!
We spent $37.93 USD and got:
- 1 two-choice bowl (⅓ lb spicy mayo ahi + ⅓ lb mayo salmon with pineapple)
- ⅓ lb shoyu ahi tuna
- garlic prawns
- marinated seaweed
The portions were HUGE! (classic U.S. sizing), and we took it to go to eat at a park bench nearby. Then drove back to the hotel to stash the leftovers in the fridge since we were going to be out all day.
Stop 2: Stocking up
Before waterfall-hopping, we hit the nearby Walmart to grab road-trip essentials: a 24-pack of water, some snacks, and two pairs of aqua shoes (about $25 USD each). Total was $66.16 USD. Aqua shoes are super handy in Hawaii because of all the beaches and rocky shores. They can be worn like shoes, but have holes in the bottom that allow for water to pass through. I had actually been looking for a pair but could not find any in stores, so I was happy to grab them here.
Stop 3: Dessert before adventure
After our Walmart stop, we headed to Two-Ladies Kitchen in Hilo for some mochi. This popular spot is a must visit if you’re in town! Make sure to get there early though, as they’re only open from 10 am to 4 pm Tuesday to Saturday, and close early if they sell out (which they usually do).
We were lucky because when we arrived, they had fresh strawberry mochi out on the counter (these ones usually sell out and they don’t take call-ins or custom orders for them).
We bought:
- 1 box of 4 assorted mochis
- 3 fresh strawberry mochis
The texture was perfect: chewy but not tooth-sticking, and the strawberries were big and juicy. The total came to $20.94 USD and was definitely worth it. It’s been 2 years since this trip happened, and I still dream about their mochi to this day!
Stop 4: Grab-and-go lunch for the road
Next, we picked up lunch from Koji’s Bento Box — a tiny takeout spot with just enough room to order. They’ve got a hot line for build-your-own bentos and a menu of local dishes. We got the Koji loco: two patties, an egg, sausage, mac salad, gravy and rice for just $12.95 USD!
With snacks + lunch secured, it was time for the main activity of the day.
Chasing Waterfalls:
Our plan was simple: hit up the waterfalls around Hilo, then finish with a scenic coastal drive.
1. Rainbow Falls
First up was Rainbow Falls, which was less than a 5 minute drive from downtown Hilo. The walk to the viewpoint takes less than 3 minutes, so it’s a perfect warm up and suitable for those who don’t like long hikes.
It was sunny when we went, but we didn’t catch the rainbow because it usually appears earlier in the morning. Still, the falls themselves were beautiful and powerful, and we spent about 30–40 minutes walking around, taking photos, and checking out the huge banyan tree nearby. The banyan tree looks like something out of a fantasy movie with all the aerial roots, and is definitely worth seeing in person.
2. Peʻepeʻe Falls & Boiling Pots
Just 5 minutes up the same river system is the Peʻepeʻe Falls / Boiling Pots section of Wailuku River State Park. This area is where the river drops in steps and forms a series of pools that look like they’re “boiling” when the water is high. On the day we went, water levels were moderate so it wasn’t super dramatic, but you could still see the river moving through the lava-rock terraces.
Peʻepeʻe Falls is usually viewed from a distance as it’s partially hidden behind rocks and vegetation, and there are signs telling you not to go down because of flash-flood danger. It’s one of those spots where, if you come right after rain, it probably looks incredible, but on a normal day it’s more of a “quick scenic stop” than a full activity. We took a few photos, checked out the lookout, and moved on.
3. Kaumana Caves
From there we drove up to Kaumana Caves, which is an opening in a 25-mile-long lava tube created by the Mauna Loa eruption in 1881. The entrance is jaw-dropping as it’s literally a massive hole on the side of the road. You park, walk over, and suddenly there’s this big opening in the ground with steep concrete steps leading down.
At the bottom, the tube splits: one side narrower, the other side taller. We explored only the entrance area using our phone flashlights, and even then, it got pitch black fast. Most guides recommend a real headlamp, sturdy shoes, and a buddy if you want to go deeper, because the floor is uneven and it gets cold/damp as you go in. We played it safe and turned back. Even just standing at the entrance and realizing all of this was created by flowing lava was wild.
4. ʻAkaka Falls State Park
Next up: ʻAkaka Falls State Park, about 25 minutes north of Hilo. This is one of those “must do” Hilo stops. The park is open daily (8:30 am–5:00 pm), and for non-residents it’s $5 per person + $10 parking (credit card only). From the parking lot, there’s a paved 0.4-mile loop through the lush rainforest with ferns, bamboo, orchids. Plus, you get to see two waterfalls: Kahuna Falls first (smaller, framed through trees) and then the main event: ʻAkaka Falls, dropping 442 ft straight into a gorge. It’s stunning even on a low-flow day.
We took our time enjoying all the natural beauty around us, took a bunch of photos, and finished the loop in about 45 minutes.
After that, we finally sat down and ate our Koji’s bentos and mochi.
The Scenic Drive Back: Old Māmalahoa Highway & Onomea Trails
On the way back toward Hilo, we wanted to do the Old Māmalahoa Highway scenic drive. A short, winding stretch of the old road that cuts closer to the coast. It’s super lush with lots of shade, and feels kind of like a mini version of the Road to Hāna. You drive between these exposed root “walls” and it really does feel like you’re entering a different world.
Along the way back, there was another spot on our list to visit, which is the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. However, we decided to save it for another day as it was close to 5 pm and they were closing.
Further down the road we noticed a few cars pulled over and realized we were at the Onomea Trail trailhead. So we decided to stop by and check it out.
The trail here is short and drops you down toward Onomea Bay through a rainforest corridor. All throughout the trail you can see palms, big leaves, and ocean glimpses through the trees. At the bottom, the trail opens to a rocky shoreline with waves crashing into the cliffs, and somehow there are trees growing right out of the rock. It’s not a long hike, but it’s beautiful, quiet, and a good finale to a day packed with adventure.
Back at the Hotel:
Since we had the $25 USD per person daily dining credit from my Hilton Gold status, we kept dinner simple and ate at the hotel bar: two flatbread pizzas, an order of nachos, plus our two complimentary drink vouchers. Nothing fancy, but it felt nice not to pay out of pocket after a full day out.
That evening, we tried to drive back up toward Mauna Kea to catch sunset and do some stargazing, but when we got to the visitor center, the road higher up was closed due to fog/ice, so we were forced to turn around.
Instead, we went back to the hotel, and planned out our next few days.
Conclusion: End of Day 1, Setting Up Day 2
So that was our first full day in Hilo: fresh poke, local treats, waterfalls, a lava tube, a coastal drive, and dinner using hotel credits.
In Part 3, I’ll walk through the rest of our Hilo adventures. The spots we had to push to the next day (like the Hawaiʻi Tropical Botanical Garden), and how we kept stacking small savings to make this a very doable Hawaii trip on points.
If you’ve been to any of these Hilo spots, Rainbow Falls, Akaka Falls, Onomea Bay, let me know which one was your favourite below! And if you’re planning your own Big Island trip, bookmark this post so you can use this itinerary to create your own adventure.
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